Caribbean Eats

Being a foodie who loves to explore, discover and eat but not create, being in the British Virgin Islands (BVI) was similar to favored guest status on all my favorite Food Network shows. Not only did I embark on another culinary adventure but I was amazed at the flavors and diversity, a result of the melting pot of cultures from the last 200+ years.  What is pretty extraordinary is that the Virgin Islands are volcanic rock and nothing grows there. Everything is imported and considering availability and cost, the  offerings are mouthwatering.

I was doubly blessed with world class restaurants and a hostess who is a chef who takes great pride in planning, preparing and serving delicious repasts.

I was charmed by her home, especially the outside terrace that was the venue for all our meals. The spectacular views of the Caribbean and warm breezes provided the perfect ambience. 

Caribbean Delight

In general breakfast is my favorite meal and I anticipated every morning for a gourmet start to a new day.

Eggs En Cocotte

 

Huevos Rancheros

 

Though every dining experience was a delight, there is one that floats to the top. Ferrying from one island to the other for a meal is intrinsic to the local experience, and so a half hour ferry ride from Tortola found us wind blown and sun kissed at Virgin Gorda and a final rattle in an open taxi deposited us at the red door to Coco Maya in Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda. The overall experience ranging from setting to ambience accompanied by Proseco and Sancerre and incredible food was glorious.

    

 Hope you are not too hungry when you view the mouthwatering delicacies below😊

Tempura Shrimp Lettuce Wraps w Apple Salsa and Avocado

 

 

Spicy Calamari w Kimchee/cucumber ribbon/sesame oil

Potato Samosa w Mango and Cilantro dipping

  

Bluebay Mussels in Coconut Broth ,Lemongrass, Ginger and Bok Choy

 

Lobster and prawn Gyoza

Another day, a casual lunch at the Sugar Mill was memorable for its open air setting, pelicans diving and fresh fish entrees.  

  

From an emotional perspective the meal that most resonated with me was out on the East End, on Beef Island which is joined by a tiny rickety bridge to Tortola. The beach restaurant is called the Loose Mongoose. After a hike up Sage Mountain the cold Caribe beer, gusty breeze and fish burger could not have been more ideal!

  

The  Scaramouche is a lovely place at the far West End of Tortola and owned by Chiara and Roberto who sailed in to Fisherman’s Bay in 2012 from Italy and never left. The place has no walls and crystal chandeliers and divine food. The views as with anywhere else in Tortola give flight to the imagination and a leisurely aperitif and wine pairings accompanied an amazing dinner.  

Aperitif

 

Ceviche and Fennel

 

Gnocchi with Creme Fraiche

Pappardelle Veal Ragu

On my last night we went to Brandywine. It’s been a success for many years and is a favorite staple of the Road Town local crowd. Till about two years ago it was Italian but under new ownership it serves Mediterranean cuisine. After strong winds drove us from the picturesque terrace overlooking the Sir Francis Drake Channel, we moved into the charming restaurant and I dined on seasonal soft shell crab and a menu favorite, Tuna Tartare. In true Tortolan fashion both were delicious.  

 I left the BVI replete with delicious food and good wine. The dining choices are amazing and varied!!!

Ruby’s Tips

>Make friends with the locals. Though Trip Advisor is a great resource and I rely on it heavily, it is always extra special to be nudged in the right direction by somebody who has the inside track. And the locals are extremely friendly. I don’t think I stopped smiling when I was talking to them.

>Anegada  is one of the four inhabited BVIs. Though I could not make it there and only observed it from afar, the local lobster is fished from the waters around there. It is surrounded by a reef and the Caribbean blues are particularly beautiful. There are about 10 or so restaurants on the isle but I am told that the place at Cow Wreck Beach is awesome.  

>A few other great restaurant and entertainment recommendations from my friend who has been visiting and staying there for over 15 years.

*Quito’s Gazebo at Cane Garden Bay (Caribbean) is owned by Quito Rymer and on Friday nights Quito and his band the Edge entertain with their unique Reggae sounds after 10pm. His website:http://quitoandtheedge.com/

*D’Coal Pot for Caribbean cuisine
*Red Rock at Penn’s Landing for seafood
*The Dove for fine dining/international cuisine
*Origins for sushi
*BananaKeet – great view and Caribbean cuisine
*Sharkey’s Cantina for pizza and Mexican food

>For more details/information on all the dining options and their inside stories check the TripAdvisor website:

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g147353-British_Virgin_Islands.html

Adios till next time!!!

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Caribbean Blue

The last time I was in the Caribbean was in the mid 1980’s.  I was a lowly Media Supervisor at a large advertising agency and as was the want of poorly paid ad agency employees we gleefully accepted every invitation from the magazine, radio and television industry. They of course were courting the bucketfuls of media dollars at our disposal in exchange for free drink, food and entertainment. It was at one of those soirées in what was pretty much a rigged name pull (by my friendly sales rep) that I won and set sail on a Caribbean cruise from San Juan, Puerto Rico to St. Thomas, Caracas, Barbados and Martinique. Though recognized in later years as a budget sail we had a wonderful cruise and as my first ever big vacation it left me with the fondest memories of the islands and its warm creamy waters.  I discovered that the Caribbean seas came in more shades of blue than I could imagine and that the sun sparkling on the waters created mirages of indescribable beauty. After that trip, I have traveled extensively in the past few decades and seen many ocean hues but it took a return trip to the Caribbean this week to remind me how unique the beauty of these waters are with the volcanic Virgin Islands strewn carelessly as if a giant hand was playing with marbles and creating a panorama of colors with their reefs, lagoons and bays. So here I am back in St.Thomas on my way back to the mainland and I leave my sensory week in Tortola, British Virgin Islands with incredible images imprinted on my mind.

    

My first sight of the perfectly situated  home of a good friend and my host for the week transported me back to Mykonos. It was picture postcard perfect and all I could think of at that moment and the next few days was why it had taken me so long to come back to the Caribbean.

  

It is with a feeling of surprise and trepidation that I am winging back to the 30 degree temperature of Minneapolis when I have been basking in an even 82F for the last few days. The night before I left Minneapolis, winter had returned after an unexpectedly early spring with 5 inches of snow followed by another blast a few days later. So the first sight of St.Thomas was a balm to my frozen soul. Cruise ships lined the harbor and sea planes buzzed about.

As I boarded the Road Town Fast Ferry from St. Thomas to Road Town, Tortola I had already immersed myself in the Caribbean ethos with a fish, rice and beans and fried plantain meal.

  

You knew you were in the Caribbean when on arrival in Tortola, immigration and customs seemed to be happening in another dimension and time. The customs agent who looked liked he was 19 was convinced that I was bringing in cigarettes but after a liberal use of ‘Sirs’ in my most dulcet tones and an invitation to check my bag, which was ridiculously small for a week stay, I was allowed to proceed and start my visit with vistas and warm breezes that rocked me to sleep the first night.

As I sign off the first of my Caribbean blogs a few pointers.

Ruby’s Tips

> Make sure you carry your passport to the Caribbean. If North America is your home, it does not matter that you are not leaving US soil. You cannot leave the U.S. Virgin Islands without full customs and immigration procedures.

>Give yourself a break and go Caribbean. Leave your efficiency desiring brain behind. They move at a different pace around here. It’s the islands Man!

>The currency used all over the Virgin Islands is US dollars. Yea! Makes life simple. So even if you go in and out of the Britsh and U.S. Virgin Islands no foreign transaction fees.

>And last but not least let your senses take over and ENJOY what is truly another bit of paradise on earth.

Adios till next time!

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IRIDESCENT 

I live in the land of luminescence. Every so often the nightly news will get me excited at the possibility of gazing at the Northern Lights from my own backyard: IF I am willing to abandon my warm bed at 2am and drive away from ambient city lights. Unfortunately when the time comes, resolve gives way to reality and another opportunity is missed. One day I will end up making the trek to the North Pole to see the glowing greens and blues and reds when I can avail myself of that beauty at home! But who needs the lights when I can see this from the French doors of my patio.

Pinks and Ochre =Stunning

Growing up in the concrete jungles of Bombay, my teenage eyes never appreciated the hundred year old Banyan trees as I walked home from school and partied away in those closely packed concrete blocks.

So, when I began to appreciate the marvels of nature in those early years in the US, I dragged my equally entranced family on endless road trips, and drank in the vistas of Bryce and Zion in Utah, the endless majesty of Glacier in Montana and the sheer drama of the Tetons  and Yellowstone in Wyoming.

After traveling to the many corners of the world, I have concluded that nothing beats the glory of the sunsets from my westerly facing abode in Minnesota.

Judge for yourself!

I often wonder that the same section of sky can produce a spaceship about to land

Or, the heralding of a miracle by beings far above

Or, incandescent fury

Or, simply a mauve goodbye to another winter day

Wending my weary way home after two months and 36 hours on the road, I got a boost of energy seeing the sun set on the horizon from my little porthole 35,000 feet in the sky.
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And I was gladly reminded by a friend that the sunrise over Lake Harriet can be as much of a winner as all the sunsets I rave about.

But after deep contemplation, maybe not 😉.

Adios till next time!

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A Polar Bear visits 

It was a gorgeous day for the Minnesotan praries. No freezing tundra this year as temperatures hit 43F (6C) and sunny blue skies made the city and frozen lake sparkle with joy🌅. So the weather could not be blamed for mirages when I spotted a massive polar bear lumbering towards me.

Arctic Mirage

Arctic Mirage

The joke was on me as it was the annual Polar plunge and Minnesotans of all ages and ilk responded with gleeful abandon at the gift of weather and the chance to not only contribute to the special Olympics but also enjoy the beautiful outdoors without freezing (literally) their tushes off!!!!

Jumping for Joy

Jumping for Joy

Of course I jumped in with both feet, (No panic, I had not totally taken leave of my senses!) to observe and cheer while braver souls than me made the sacrifice for us cowardly mortals.

A Big Bear Welcome

A Big Bear Welcome

 

 

Groups of ‘Gung Ho’ natives spurred by unseasonably warm temperatures lined up to register, and collect hat and shirt incentives that they would later wear to proudly strut  their ‘plunge’ participation, hardiness and  courage exhibited!!!

Hurry! Register and Jump

Hurry! Register and Jump

There were ten year olds and fierce warriors and Elvis (in his trillionth reincarnation) and girls in tutus…. I lost count of all the costumes and disguises. It was like Halloween in early March. One thing was certain. Everybody was having the time of their life and the excitement was palpable.

And the U of M did the city and state proud.

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Did the peanut gallery shiver with anticipation at each jump. Oh yea!! And hopefully you too from the comfort and warmth of your abode!

Fire Engine Red Sirens

Fire Engine Red Sirens

Emerald Jump Kickers

Emerald Jump Kickers

Jostling Crowd Sourcing

Jostling Crowd Sourcing

Elvis, Warrior and the Gals

Elvis, Warrior and the Gals

Viking Tutu Gals

Viking Tutu Gals

Fearsome Twosome

Fearsome Twosome

And then of course the fires in the belly had to be nourished and stoked in a minuscule emulation of the food orgies at the Minnesota state fair. I don’t think nutrition was on anybody’s mind😉

Cheese O'Rama

Cheese O’Rama

Burgers and Chili Extravaganza

Burgers and Chili Extravaganza

Donut Heaven

Donut Heaven

And games were played through the largesse of Dunn Brothers (Who knew coffee mugs could so get the competitive spirit firing?) and lots of free coffee to sip at open fires that warmed the cockles of your heart!

Yea! Free Coffee

Yea! Free Coffee

Spin The Wheel and Win A Mug

Spin The Wheel and Win A Mug

Warmth Warmth Warmth

Warmth Warmth Warmth

Bands played and the polar bear continued to dominate through ice carving contests.

Swing To The Music

Swing To The Music

Fun With Ice

Fun With Ice

The little ones were not forgotten. Though the Pee Wee plunge was there for the taking, it was sadly deserted as there was too much fun to be had with other activities.

Lonely Pee Wee Plunge

Lonely Pee Wee Plunge

Energy Diffuser

Energy Diffuser

Face Painting for the Pee Wee's

Face Painting for the Pee Wee’s

Before Winter sucker punched again, my walk that day was truly a glorious spring experience that left me with images to comfort and warm the next time it is winter again.

Adios till next time!

Exuberance

Exuberance

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Minnesota in winter! Yea

Yes,Yes Yes!!! Glistening ice sculptures, diamonds sparkling in the snow, azure blue skies, the sun a red ball of fire warming the cockles of your heart and the quarter moon so huge you could ride it all the way to the heavens.

Does that sound like a love poem to what most of you would regard as inhospitable conditions and its denizens crazy for wanting to live here. Today we reached a low of -9F (-23C) and a wind chill factor of -27F (-33C). Having just come back from two months in South East Asia and India where I sweltered in heat and humidity, it was quite a shock to my system for the first few days but then I eagerly embraced dressing in multiple layers and looking like Nanook of the North. After all who needs mascara when icicle eyelashes are all the vogue.

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Though it’s hard to believe, I love living here, in ALL four of our seasons. So, join me on my daily winter journey that may prove enticing enough to flood my home with more visitors than I can handle 😊

As many of you know, I walk every day. It’s the best part of my day and I find it exhilarating, and energizing. I walk about 7 miles (11KM) around 2 of the many natural glacier lakes in the heart of the city.

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The fauna and flora present differently every day and are a feast for the eyes: Bald eagles, Trumpeter swans and the humble wild duck.

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We Minnesotans embrace winter. It would be a hermit existence otherwise!! So it’s great fun to see the populace enjoy ice fishing (huddled in little tents), cross country skiing, dog walking, ice hockey, ice skating and wind sailing on and around the lakes.

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And what better way to start a cold February Sunday than wolfing down the best buttermilk pancakes west of the Mississippi and walking them off (ouch!) gazing at fierce ice dragons (fire all squelched) and the city proudly tall with white plumes of smoke rising into the blue sky.

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Hope springs eternal in every Minnesotan heart that spring and summer are just around the corner when the lakes will allure with a different kind of action!

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So come visit and let me tell you our little secret. It’s not that cold all the time. Next week is going to be a virtual heat wave by ‘our’ standards. We just don’t advertise it otherwise everybody would move here 😉

Adios till next time!!

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And so it ends where it began!

As I sit in Hongkong in virtually the same spot as when we arrived here two months ago, filled with anticipation and excitement at what the journey would bring, it dawns on me that those anticipatory thoughts were not only fulfilled but exceeded in ways that I could not have imagined. It’s been such a wonderful experience writing this blog and sharing it with you has been (almost) the best part of it. Almost but not totally 😊

Reality awaits at the other end and I am excited at the prospect of continuing the blog. So stay tuned as
I will continue to share my travel and other experiences, though they may not be from as exotic a locale of the past two months.

The last month in Bombay fled by and before I knew it I was on my way to the airport. An airport that I can wax eloquent till the cows come home as I have truly not seen an airport that compares in beauty, sheer impact and grandeur in my extensive travels. And this is Bombay!!!

As I gazed in awe at the splendor and beauty of the airport, yes I am going on and on about an airport, all I could think of was the airport of my youth and extended family outings that included parents, uncles, aunts, cousins and on occasion grandparents to see the first 747 land in India, wave lucky family members off to some envied foreign destination or my first trip out of the country to my new US home. Yes the airport has been modified over the years but it was provincial, creaky and very representative of its surroundings. So today I raise a toast to another curve jump that my old country has made.

And as I left my old home, nostalgia and emotion clogged my throat. I leave you with some memories of my fabulous time in Bombay and India with days filled with love and serenity and joy.

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Posted in Heading Back!, India | Leave a comment

Days are flying by

It is with some sadness that I contemplate the end of my trip. Next week at this time I will be in the air winging it towards Chicago and then Minneapolis. It’s been so filled with wonderful experiences, meeting old friends, relatives and extended family that I have to remind myself to stop grumbling about the heat, humidity, pollution and traffic 😣, especially as I will be plunging into arctic temperatures, snow and slush.

Two dear friends from Dallas were here for the last few days ‘to see my Bombay’ before they plunge into an orchestrated tour of northern India. We celebrated a 60th birthday in full color coordinated (inadvertent) Indian glory with matching ‘Bindis’ on our forehead and I probably wore them out walking my favorite childhood haunts.

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Naturally we ate lots of great indian food and had a barrel full of Laughs and chatter.

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The views from their room of my favorite Bombay haunt, the Gateway of India from which I often sailed the Arabian Sea (sans life jacket, in saris and high monsoon winds with no swimming ability 😁, oh the naïveté of the young) were stunning morning and night!

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I also enjoyed long clear days and smog filled ones when not a breath of air stirred.

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Sunsets were rare due to smog and pollution but I caught one tonight much to my surprise. And, the moon was also clear the other night!!!

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I will miss the dichotomy and diversity of Bombay that has British era Victorian structures including our own Big Ben, McDonald’s occupying the same space as traditional coconut and sugar cane juice street vendors, BMW’s honking next to man held pushcarts loaded with goods, cows lazily chewing curd and being venerated amidst the bustle of 20 million people rushing about their business and delicious street food at every corner.

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One of my favorite events was my niece’s ‘Misak’, think Bar Mitzvah and we were all puffed with pride at what a gorgeous young lady she has become. It was a grand party and of course delicious food played a big part eaten in our traditional community style of a communal large plate called a ‘Thaal’.

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Here she is with her Dad, my first cousin and my other first cousin’s daughter. Such beautiful girls 😘

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Hope you enjoyed ‘Amchi Mumbai’ or ‘My Bombay’ and Adios till Next time!!’

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A land of contrasts: Bombay to Vana

Leaving the bustle and craziness of Bombay for the tranquility of Vana might have foretold nervous system tremors, but the adjustment was welcome and instant.

Bombay is the city of my heart and will always remain so though I find I cannot live here anymore. Excitement pulses through my veins as the plane touches down at Sahar airport and a frisson of excitement overtakes my senses as I absorb its smells, sounds and feel jostling in the taxi wending its tortuous traffic clogged path to my childhood home. I love eternal India and wish I had the patience and fortitude to live here longer after 34 years in the States.

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We arrive in Dehradun delayed, famished and exhausted as fog in the North has created delays and backups all over the country. Additionally Republic Day Airforce rehearsals do not help our cause of a speedy arrival. Revival is instant as we drink in the beauty of verdant wheat fields, old villages, clear fast running streams and the Garhwal range of the Himalayan foothills.

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And then Vana!! Nothing has prepared us for its stunning, minimalist simplicity. Dazed by its tranquillity, I try and absorb as many facets of the place before we walk into our gorgeous abode for the next 5 nights.

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Vana is a wellness retreat that I read about a year ago and was determined to visit on my next trip to India. Though its not far from the bustling city of Dehradun I enter a world created by man to evoke unspoiled nature. Cameras and phones are strictly forbidden and though that is an adjustment for connect-phobic MOI! I slowly adjust and let the place take over. For a day we have Vana to ourselves, a heavenly experience, and sink into Ayurveda, Yoga, Tibetan healing, accupuncture, water Ai Chi and Vatsu (an experience that is similar to sinking into the womb and created by floating in warm water) and the best massage I have ever experiences at the masterful hands of multiple synchronised therapists.

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The cuisine is either grown on the extensive grounds or locally sourced and is delicious. Though I eat all day long 😁, I have not put on a single pound (thank you!!!!) and that makes sense when every delicious meal is 100-300 calories.

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So, after five glorious nights and six healthful days where my cervical disc issues and lower back pain have abated, I will regretfully leave Vana for the reality of Bombay, but with the vision of sunrises that I am normally never awake to see and the view of Mussorie, my nostalgic childhood hill station getaway in the Himalayas.

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Adios till next time!!!

Posted in India | 1 Comment

Eternal India

Mastering the intricacies of the Indian railways with trains running 5-6 hours late due to snow in the north and resultant dense fog around Agra and Delhi brought its own set of challenges to a pilgrimage to Burhanpur last week. Burhanpur lies in the state of Madhya Pradesh which literally means the ‘middle’ and that is its geographic location, the middle of the country. It’s one state directly above Maharashtra which is the home of Bombay.

I have been to Burhanpur many times and it hold a special place in my heart. It is a small country town of some historical significance which has not changed much in all the years I have been visiting it. Surrounded by the Aravelli range, emerald fields of wheat and sparkling waterways it contributes to India’s food basket and its ever burgeoning population.

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Country life continues at its own pace and the sense of tranquility and peace is so pervasive that one feels a different sense of time and place separate from this modern century.

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The Indian railways are an enduring legacy of the British Raj and the main form of transportation for its billion plus people. They are a marvel of efficiency and cris cross the sub continent with fanciful names such as the Deccan Queen, Rajdhani and Punjab Mail. I slept in our cozy little coupe to the click clack of wheels and the haunting note of the train whistle as it warned sleepy little towns to move out of the way. Memories of school trips to Delhi to celebrate Republic and Independence Day, hanging out of train doorways with giggling friends watching India go by always make for nostalgic train journeys so many decades later.

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Burhanpur has its own haunting history since this is where the greatest love story in Royal Mughal history ended. The Taj Mahal is an enduring legacy to this love and is the final resting place of Mumtaz Mahal the beloved third wife of Shah Jahan who died in Burhanpur giving birth to her 14th child in 1631. She was only 39 and the grief stricken emperor never recovered. He had his own tragic end imprisoned by their son and gazing at the Taj with fading eyesight, only to end up next to his wife 30 years later.
This eternal land which is so ancient and has been conquered repeatedly since the time of Alexander the Great saw its zenith of Royal rule with the Mughals and Shah Jahan before the British and Independence wiped out the last vestiges of glory. Unfortunately little remains of Shah Jahan’s fort high above the Tapti River, but imagination can construe the splendor of far gone times.

Back to my pilgrimage and the reason for going there with two overnight train journeys and a day sandwiched in between, is the tomb of a saint who was martyred by Aurangazeb, son of Shah Jahan and his captor, in the late 1600’s. I have tremendous faith in him and so do countless others regardless of religion and faith.

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Laying my head on the headstone instantly vanquished my cares and brought confidence to worries and stress.

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The little village of Burhanpur had its own version of street food and fun for its little visitors. 😄

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And so another trip to Burhanpur came to an end with a return to Bombay with my mother and her two sisters and a sense of peace.

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Adios till next time!!!

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Reflections

I have been in ‘Beloved Bombay’ for a few days but don’t feel ready to write a post about it yet. It’s not easy coming back to the city of my youth, where so many formative events shaped who I am today. I am assaulted with memories at every turn, from the long traffic clogged ride from the airport to a walk in the bazaar to my (hopefully) daily walk along the sea front at the Port Trust gardens/Colaba Bus Station.

During my Best Buy years we indulged in team exercises that encouraged candid discussions of ‘life lines’. I always had the least bumpy and placid story to tell. And it was true. Growing up in the safe haven of my family, attending a great school and college, with friends I had known since I was about 7, it seemed like a magic time. And as I search for it after a two year absence I see glimpses but more often I see change. My favorite street food place is gone and in its place is a rather slick middle eastern (or so it claims) eatery, the general store has been replaced by another ready made clothing store that will be gone faster than the blink of an eye and the quieter streets around us are a cacophony of horns, toots, grinding bus gears and street vendors hawking their wares

Ocassionally it makes me smile to still hear the wailing pipe of the snake charmer and the jingle of a horse drawn carriage

So, assimilation is slow but what is fresh in my mind are memorable moments from the past month.

Bangkok Train and Floating market!

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Monks daily benediction in Luang Prabang!

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Dragon fruit!

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Halong Bay!

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Awesome Pho and seafood!

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Angkor Wat! 😍

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Markets!

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Buddhas!

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Hmong love and matrimony!

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Singapore!

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Adios till next time!

Posted in Reflections | 2 Comments