A Hop, Skip and many Jumps

Posted on October 6, 2015 by rubyroams

The walk continued along the Peljesac Peninsula of Croatia with another personal best of 75+ floors and a new badge from Fitbit: 6 miles climbing steadily most of the way. And was it worth it! Views that surpassed the one before of the walled city of Korcula, the straits below and the rocky cliffs above.



Along the way came a much needed respite at Maria’s for lunch, sampling her family’s home made sour cherry grappa, red and white wine, melt in your mouth Dalmatian specialty of Pasticada, a beef stew cooked for two days with carrots, plums and red wine over a bed of gnocchi. All accompanied by a salad picked that morning in a grappa vinaigrette.


Along the way we passed the medieval city of Ston with high stone walls over 4 miles long built in the early 14th century. Second to Hadrian’s wall in England and a miniature of the Great Wall of China though no less intimidating.
 

Dinner that night overlooking the Adriatic featured mussels, oysters and sea bass harvested that afternoon. I am getting awfully spoilt with the cuisine and getting back to reality is going to be impossible.

      

Adios till next time!

Posted in Croatia, Dalmatian Coast, Korcula, Peljesac Peninsula | Tagged , , , , | 6 Comments

Food, Glorious food

Posted on October 5, 2015 by rubyroams

Today was a culinary adventure. Starting my walking tour of the Dalmatian Coast from the Konavle cliffs to the quaint village of Mocici, the 5 mile climb to a 300 foot elevation over the Adriatic was stepping back in time. Lush pomegranate trees, billy goats, stone houses and images memorialized by the impressionists delighted along rutted stone paths.



The welcome provided by the Brautovic family in their home dating back to the 15th century was truly mouthwatering. Running an agriturismo, the concept of farm to table took on a new meaning. Matthew welcomed us with six homemade Grappa ranging in flavors from cherry to plum and snacks that included Quince cakes and candied lemon.


  

The feast prepared by the matriarch of the home rolled in with anchovy carpaccio on a bed of butter and arugula, focaccia with rosemary, thyme and oregano and a roasted blue fish spread mixed with olive oil, garlic, parsley and others herbs, to die for.

  

And then the main courses! You could hear the sighs of gluttony when the black cuttlefish risotto, wild asparagus, goat cheese and tomato pasta, grilled Bonita fish accompanied by new potatoes and a freshly picked red pepper, cucumber and tomato salad appeared on the table. All accompanied by the home pressed wine from the merlot and plavac grapes growing around us.

And yes let me not forget the  scrumptious rozata cake for dessert!


  
  
  

If that was not enough, dinner at the Pucic palace did its best to compete with lunch with a zucchini salad, Adriatic ceviche and wild sea bass in a very interesting presentation.


  

It’s a good thing I walked another 12 miles and climbed a gazillion floors. As I enjoy a well deserved rest in anticipation of tomorrow, adios till next time!

Posted in Croatia, Dalmatian Coast | Tagged , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Ramparts of Dubrovnik

Posted on October 4, 2015 by rubyroams

The exploration of Dubrovnik continued on a sunny day though the forecast predicted rain. It turned out to be perfect for walking the old city walls. The task is challenging since the circumference is close to 1 1/2 miles and the arduous climbs rise to 85 feet. It is a must do and extremely rewarding with panoramic views of the Adriatic and the city.



  
  

The boat ride to Lokrum island famous for its peacocks, Dead Sea pool high in salinity and Game of Thrones center occupied the afternoon. Though I am not a Game of Thrones fan I played the part and availed myself of the throne.


  

Vistas provided by the cable car ride to the mountain overlooking Dubrovnik with a frontdrop of setting sun and the city coming to light were breathtaking.


Dinner at a Bosnian restaurant highly recommended by friends and inappropriately called Taj Mahal was delicious and the only place in town with 20 minute waits. I had the well rated red ‘Postup Matusko’ and the house special of Veal, mushrooms and potatoes in succulent pastry. Ummmm!


My Fitbit says I have walked 12 miles and climbed 62 floors. I guess it’s time to bid Adios!

Ruby’s Tips

1. The Dalmatian Coast is becoming as popular as the Italian riviera. It is relatively easy to get here. I flew American to Munich and bought a separate round trip ticket on Lufthansa to Croatia.

2. People are friendly and welcoming. Ask the locals as they give great tips. English is very common and menus are in English as well as other languages.

3. The restaurants are amazing. I did a lot of research on trip advisor and was fortunate to have two friends who had recent visits.

4. In Dubrovnik you have to stay in the walled old city. I changed my original reservations after great advice and would have been filled with regret otherwise. Though the few hotels within are expensive, there are many apartments to rent on Airbnb. I booked the Amoret apartments (www.dubrovnik-amoret.hr) where a friend stayed. Wonderful location and well appointed.

4. Public transportation is very efficient. I have been taking buses everywhere and they are extremely cost efficient.

Posted in Croatia, Dalmatian Coast, Dubrovnik | Tagged , , , , | 9 Comments

Ancient Dubrovnik

Posted on October 3, 2015 by rubyroams

My brief stop in Munich flashed and disappeared before my eyes as I landed in Dubrovnik today and took up residence within the ancient walled city dating to the 7th – 13th centuries. Church bells clanged a welcome and continued through the night. Having just read one of the loveliest books, I imagined what it would have been like to live in Saint-mMalo in Brittany. I believe I know now.


Leaving Munich this morning I reflected on the incredible German efficiency that moves 6 million people through Oktoberfest with no delays, aggravation, security checks and virtually no visible police presence. The national pride is on full display with over 50% of the populace in Lederhosen and Dirndls. The little ones are especially cute. And though the efficiency is not as evident in Dubrovnik, the ease of being a visitor is the same.

The sun had already set by the time I ventured out and the countless steps I climbed, 300 or more at a time, provided stunning vistas of the walled city in the dark.


  
  

After dinner and a delicious local red, I kept getting waylaid by more sights and a concert on the steps of the old cathedral.

  
   

Jet lag has been a little unforgiving so far, so adios till next time!

 

Posted in Croatia, Dalmatian Coast, Dubrovnik | Tagged , , , , | 6 Comments

If it’s Oktoberfest it must be Munich

Posted on October 2, 2015 by rubyroams

I arrived in Munich today to sunny blue skies and a crispness to the air that heralded in the last weekend of Oktoberfest.

I have never seen such a spectacle before and the ones in the US pale in comparison to the overload of impressions that assaulted my senses. Six million people attend this grand event every year and it felt like I met everyone of them today. Babies to great grandmothers greedily grabbed every experience floating in the air and I happily enjoyed shrieks of mirth as the rides threw kids in the air, loud songs grew louder as massive tankards of beer disappeared down thirsty gullets and giant pretzels and bratwurst longer than my arm were consumed.


  

On my way to the Dalmatian Coast I am SO glad that I stopped for an unforgettable day in Munich.

Oktoberfest is a giant fair  with one critical difference: the acres of tents that hold thousands of people hellbent on carousing, drinking and indulging in gluttony.


  


The diversity is wonderful to see as hundreds of dialects mingled in a United Nations of peace and fun. I am sure all that food greased the way.


  
  
  


Needless to say i did indulge  despite a heavy jet lag. As they say one life to live😊

The Budweiser horses had great company from an impressive array of beasts pulling the Lowenbrau and  Paulaner beer wagons.


  

What a memorable experience Oktoberfest has been and created more images to cherish!

Adios till next time !

Posted in Munich | 6 Comments

Oh the dog days of summer!

Posted on July 12, 2015 by rubyroams

Summer: Hot steamy days, cool water lakes, languorous naps, 9pm sunsets, late afternoon thunderstorms, mosquitoes and barbecues! This summer has certainly fulfilled its promise.

Fourth of July was a perfect day, emblematic of summer and the emotion of Independence Day. Though only a few miles from downtown I could have been in any small town America as I watched the joyous parade down our main Street. Later that evening thirty minutes of crackle, pop and boom fireworks completed the celebrations.  

  

      

Shakespeare by the lake anybody? For the past few weekends I have been entertained  by a theater company putting on free performances of ‘The Two Gentlemen of Verona’ on the grassy verges of Lake of the Isles. Every weekend the audience grows and it’s fun to hear Olde English as I pass by.

  


Our resident Lake Calhoun Bald Eagle has been busy and put on quite a show as it tried to catch its lunch one day.  

 

I have indulged in many summer barbecue delights: burgers, brats, corn and the seasonal bounty of grilled vegetables but I had an unexpected treat when a good friend tempted me over with the South Indian delicacy ‘dosas’. They are delicious crepes of lentils and fermented rice that I pigged out on accompanied with potatoes and coconut chutney. Anjum is a dosa expert in a preparation requiring touch, sleight of hand, right temperature pan and tremendous patience. I was able to capture the process that made brunch pure culinary heaven.





Summer still has a ways to go but I sign off this post with images that capture thunderstorms over the city and a blissful sunset over the massive expanse of Lake Minnetonka.  

  
Adios amigos till next time!

Posted in MInnesota | Tagged , , , , | 4 Comments

Historic Times

Posted on June 28, 2015 by rubyroams

Last week was momentous in the events that transpired. Two major Supreme Court decisions and President Obama singing an impromptu Amazing Grace at the uplifting conclusion of tragic events in South Carolina. Amazing Grace has always had the power to affect me profoundly and as I watched the replay at 1.37 in the morning after an exciting night and week I was overcome by a wave of emotion.

My blog is not about politics or propagating my personal views. Rather it is a celebration of places and cuisines that impact me on my travels and at home. This past Friday I was enjoying a summer evening with two good friends who are enthusiastic photographers. My photography has improved greatly as I participate in discussions with them and I treasure all the tips I pick up from Christine and Lisa on Composition and Visual Tension.

The evening started in a surreal fashion. We were surrounded on all sides by angry thunderstorms, hail and rain but Lisa’s beautiful deck was an oasis of calm as she prepared the perfect summer repast: grilled pizzas with pesto/tomatoes/basil and barbecue chicken/red onion, and a cucumber/ white onion salad with cucumbers diced so thin they luminesced in their transparency. A broccoli/ramen noodle cole slaw and cut watermelon rounded out the feast. I was all set to raid her refrigerator the next morning for leftovers but Lisa put a kabash on that 😞

My two photographer friends suggested we drive downtown and photograph the iconic bridges over the Mississippi lit up to reflect the historic week of Supreme Court decisions. So from sunset to 1am we wandered under the bridges and on the sands of the Mississippi.

Enjoy!  


       

The I-35 bridge featured above has been rebuilt since it collapsed into the Mississippi in August 2007. I remember the evening vividly as I was driving downtown and was caught in the massive traffic back up. It was a sad event and memories of that day came rushing back as I stood under the massive arches of the new bridge only 5 feet above the swiftly flowing water. It is not possible to imagine the terrifying plunge from over a 100 feet into the water but as I stood there that night I was overcome by a dueling sense of grief and peace. I now use the bridge often to go to the University of Minnesota and it was a unique experience to see the impressive engineering from the bottom up. It’s beautifully designed and gracefully  built. 

We also visited the Lowry bridge in North East Minneapolis and it was an experience to walk on the sandy banks of the Mississippi a mile or so upriver from downtown. In all my years of living here I have never been this close to the river. It is mighty and in a flight of fancy I wanted to throw a bottled message into the dark waters and know it would eventually flow into the Gulf of Mexico thousands of miles south from where I stood.


  

We met a benefactor that night who gave us a tour of the sands beneath the Lowry. Thank you Chuck as I am not sure we would have found our way down there at midnight.  

So adios amigos from the three of us as I close the weekend this Sunday night on momentous events in our nations history.  


Till next time as always!

 

Posted in MInnesota | Tagged , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Glorious Spring

Posted on June 13, 2015 by rubyroams

I love the four seasons. Winter is also tolerable as the anticipation of spring and longer days loom after the winter solstice on December 21. The days slowly lengthen until finally it’s daylight savings time and spring! Since summer officially kicks off tomorrow I am hustling to get my spring blog out before the season becomes irrelevant.

Many creatures abounded this spring. I thought my eyes were playing tricks when I spotted the Loch Ness monster rearing its head from Lake Calhoun.

 However sanity prevailed and I was able to focus and enjoy the real denizens of the lakes.

         

The unexpected becomes the expected and a dance troupe provided color and pleasure on a day with lowering clouds and a brisk wind.

    

 The flora rivaled the fauna sightings  and the colors were abundantly generous this year.

        

  

The lakes are a hive of activity ranging from the lazy to the active and always interesting  as I do my daily promenade.  



  

 

And of course lots of food and drink at the venerable Tin Fish and Bread and Pickle on Lakes Calhoun and Harriet. The fish tacos and beer are a personal favorite though there is something for everybody. (Thetinfishrestaurants.com;breadandpickle.com).


 I am fortunate that I get to enjoy the beauty and quality of life in the Twin Cities so plan a visit soon since long summer days beckon with anticipation. 

Adios till next time!

 

Posted in MInnesota | 4 Comments

Los Angeles re-discovered 

Posted on June 3, 2015 by rubyroams

Having been to Los Angeles countless times on business, my memories include asthma inducing smog, choked freeways, offices and meetings that flow forgettably together and joy at approaching LAX so that I could get back to the sanity of home. Yes there are also pleasant memories of attending Academy Awards, Grammys, Emmys and concerts and staying at The Shutters, Pelican Bay and the Beverly Hills Hotel gawking at bungalows once occupied by Elizabeth Taylor/Richard Burton and other iconic names from yesteryear. Last week I was glad to re-discover LA at my own pace visiting a dear friend re-located from Minneapolis. Though the choked freeways had not changed 😁, I had clear blue skies and reveled in the cool temperatures. Staying close to Redondo, Hermosa and Manhattan beaches sure delivered the imagined LA experience.  

   

  I have always been fascinated by surfers. The mastery of the waves through sheer skill and strength is inspiring. It takes vision and determination to plunge into the freezing waters of the Pacific and conquer the surf. I was thrilled to catch the action as a group of intrepid souls readied themselves for action.  

 And then triumphantly rode the waves! 

Walking along the promenade I encountered a navy fly-by and was saddened to see a Sea lion washed up on the beach. With scarcity of food this is unfortunately becoming a common sight.  

   The Getty Center sits proudly perched high above the 405 and I have driven by it longingly many times.  It lived up to all my expectations when I finally got there. The spectacular location, architecture and art deliver a perfect trifecta of beauty. It’s a must see and I highly recommend a visit for all.  

      

   Another discovery was LACMA or the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. It’s on Wilshire boulevard in the heart of LA and I was frankly blown away by the treasures that have been donated by all the luminaries of the city.  The diversity of art ranges from Asian, American and Meso- American, Egyptian and European and is overwhelming.  It’s bold contemporary architecture of grey and red draws hordes of locals and I was delighted at the sight of  schoolchildren learning about cultures and places they might never visit.

  

  

And of course the LA cuisine is fabulous. Deliberately we stayed away from all the big names and must see places and explored the local mouthwatering ethnic foods:Vietnamese and Thai and the great Ethiopian neighborhood close to LACMA. And it did not disappoint!

So plan a visit to to LA soon and enjoy!

Ruby’s Tips

> Plan your trip and events in advance especially in the summer. Google is your best friend.

> The Getty has free admission and LACMA has a free day. All the museums are closed different days of the week.

> The traffic is not easy. Even with six lanes on either side the 405 can be a parking lot.  Leave plenty of time to get to your destination.

> Try to move beyond the usual tourist haunts. Explore local restaurants and the ethnic cuisine.  It’s delicious and easy on the budget.

> And please help the California drought by your mindfulness.

Adios till next time!

Posted in Los Angeles | Tagged , , , , , | 4 Comments

Caribbean Views 

Posted on April 8, 2015 by rubyroams

As I reluctantly wrap up posts of my visit to the British Virgin Islands, the grand finale focuses on the views that enchanted and remain entrenched in my memory. Tortola and the surrounding islands are without doubt a beautiful part of the world and have the topography, people, food and climate for a very attractive destination.  And if you are visiting from the Americas the proximity and ease of getting there is a boon.

The Islands were discovered in the 1400’s by no less a personage than Christopher Columbus. They are now an autonomous territory of Great Britain and geared today to tourism and financial services. But the yoke of slavery working the sugarcane plantations that came with the European discovery of the New Workd remain a key part of its history.

A ‘must’ visit is to the tiny museum situated in the 1780’s Lower Estate Sugar Works in Road Town. It is easily found and close to the main ferry terminal. A leisurely half hour with personalized commentary from a proud Tortolan offers a glimpse into life now and past. After that a walk along the Old Main Street is a feast for the eyes as brightly painted structures in chartreuse, orange, purple, green and pink dazzle the eyes.

Coffee, mouthwatering pastries, home made soups and salads in the Old Customs House and shopping a wide array of West Indian spices and art at the  Sunny Caribbee and local photography and art at the Allamanda Gallery round off a stroll on Main Street.  

  

Her Majesty’s Prison is being converted into a museum and the old iron barred cells in use until recently, evoke a shudder as you pass by on Main Street. But beware!!! The lanes are very narrow and jaywalkers are not welcome. The Tortolans will run you down without batting an eyelash.  

The islands are volcanic and the hills rise straight up. It makes for hairy driving on the ‘other’ side of the road.  My heart was perpetually in my mouth every time we raced up or down or were overtaken on the narrow roads and sheer drops of Joe’s Hill. There is great hiking on Sage Mountain along a multitude of trails amidst flora, fauna and little darting geckos. Driving the Ridge Road is highly recommended after the hike. It follows the spine of the Island East to West, and views of the surrounding islands and Road Town cradled in multi hued blue shimmer are breathtaking.   

   

 At the East End of Tortola the Ridge Road winds down to the Airport and Beef Island, and access to Camanoe Island (seen below) is a short 10 minute boat ride.  

An unexpected delight is discovering  Aragorn’s Studio in Trellis Bay Village on Beef Island. Metal sculptures, pottery, art and beautifully carved colorful fish offer a cornucopia of temptations. The Fireball Full Moon Party happens once a month on the beach and though my timing did not coincide with a full moon, I was told its quite the event and not to be missed.

    

Aragorn also provides organic produce from his Full Moon Farm. It is amazing that anything local is available since all food is imported despite an abundance of wild roosters, chickens and goats who are the bane of local residents trying to nurture a garden.

The island light is amazing and probably inspires all the artists who flock here.

    

So make haste and book your vacation to the BVI and my guidance will hopefully lead to a fantastic time 😊.

Ruby’s Tips

> Getting there: Multiple ways to get to the Virgin Islands. Regional airlines such as Cape Air, Seaborne, Liat, Air Sunshine fly directly into Road Town and connect from San Juan, Puerto Rico, St. Maarten, St.Thomas and Antigua. There is also a ferry from St.Thomas to Road Town which is what I used. It takes an hour, and there is nothing like the wind in your hair and the sun on your face as the Catamaran skims over the waves. The ferry terminal is only 10 minutes from the airport and though there are multiple choices the most reliable is the Road Town Ferry, a Massachusetts owned company.

>Sailing: Chartering a sailboat and sailing it yourself or with a crew is very popular. The Moorings (moorings.com) is a renowned marina and offers charters of all sizes and shapes, crewed and non-crewed. I met many groups of families and friends sailing the US and British Virgin Islands. The islands are all clustered together and the many inlets and bays are gorgeous.

>Private Ownership: A few of the islands are privately owned such as Guano, Peter, Norman, Necker and Mosquito and close access is restricted.

>Length of stay: I recommend a minimum stay of a week. If I have a regret it is that I was only there for 3 full days. I would have loved to visit Anegada and feast on the local lobster. Also the spirit and laissez faire attitude needs a little bit of time to seep into every fiber of your being.

>Information and Guidance: The bvitourism.com website  is comprehensive and helpful. It’s many offshoots lead you to shopping, restaurants, places to stay, dos and donts, sailing etc.

>Skeeters: Beware the mosquitoes! They are relentless and for people like me who are homing  beacons for the little devils, lathering up with repellant is an absolute must and effective.

Adios till next time!

Posted in Caribbean | Tagged , , , , , , , | 8 Comments